Red Eyed Tree Frog (Agalychnis callidryas) Native to: Southern Mexico to Eastern Panama All red eye tree frogs have their signature red eyes with vertical pupils and a green back and a creamy white belly. Some red eye tree frogs have white spots on their back as well. The feet are yellow to orange in color. Color and size can vary depending on the geographic location the frog comes from. Red eye tree frogs from the northern part of the range tend to be slightly smaller with blue display flanks while specimens from the southern part of the range tend to be larger but have less colorful display flanks. If cared for properly this species can make a long lived and interesting pet. The following information should help facilitate a long and happy experience with your frog. Temperature / Heating Red eye tree frogs do best at temperature ranges of 60 - 85 F (15 - 30 C), though long periods of time at their temperature extremes can be unhealthy for the animals. They do well with average daytime temperatures of about 75- 80 F (24 - 27 C) and nighttime temperatures of 70- 75 F (21 - 24 C).Usually red eye tree frogs do well at room temperature, but if needed, an under-tank heater, low wattage incandescent bulb, or ceramic emitters can be used to raise the temperature of the enclosure. In summer months steps need to be taken to keep the enclosure cool, such as to make sure the enclosure is not in direct sunlight and to circulate the air in the room with a fan or open window. UV light has not been proven to be helpful or harmful to these animals but if your enclosure contains live plants you should provide some light for the plants. A 12-hour photo period should be provided and can be achieved by using a timer. Enclosures A variety of different containers may be used to house Giant Tree Frogs. They must be water proof and non-toxic. Glass and plastics are the best materials For visibility, longevity and aesthetic appeal. Any enclosure must be secure and escape proof. A tight fitting wooden or aluminum frame covered with fly-mesh provides the necessary ventilation and security while allowing the valuable U.V. light to reach the frogs. A standard 45cmx45cm viv would adequately house two to three adult frogs. Feeding In nature most frogs are almost totally insectivorous. In captivity the tendency to use substitute foods is one which must be avoided. The most common dietary problems seen in frogs are related to lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. Calcium is available in stores and should be mixed in equal quantities with a multivitamin powder then dusted on food before feeding. Place your insects in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/multivitamin powder and shake it till the food is well coated. By doing this about twice a week, calcium deficiency will be avoided. . Feed your frog a variety of insects and invertebrates and you should have few diet related problems. Juveniles will happily eat flies, moths, small crickets and cockroaches, and should have food available to them AT ALL TIMES. Adults will eat almost anything that moves and fits in their mouth, they should be offered about 10-20% of their own body size in food over 2-3 feeds each week. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water.