White’s Tree Frog (Pelodryas caerulea) White’s tree frogs have been known to live up to twenty years. It is not uncommon for a White’s tree frog to live fifteen years in captivity White’s originate from Indonesia and Australia. The Indonesian specie is somewhat larger and green. the Australian specie may reach the size of a baseball and adults will have a blue or aqua color and are much more colorful than the Indonesian specie. Australian White’s have the ability to change color from a dark brown to a blue green. If cared for properly this species can make a long lived and interesting pet. The following information should help facilitate a long and happy experience with your frog. Temperature / Heating It is imperative that White Lipped Tree Frog be kept warm. Prolonged exposure to temperatures below 15°C will result in the death of your animals. the most effective way to heat your enclosure is by the use of a heat mat placed under the tank with about 75-100mm of waterin the tank. The water should be heated to 28-30°C and this should ensure that the air temperature remains above 20°C. A waterfall or some other form of water movement will increase evaporation and help maintain and stabilise the temperature and humidity of the air. If excessive heat loss is occurring, part of the lid may be covered with glass or plastic. Be sure however that this cover is not beneath the light fixture as it will stop the necessary U.V. light from reaching the frogs. Enclosures A variety of different containers may be used to house Giant Tree Frogs. They must be water proof and non-toxic. Glass and plastics are the best materials For visibility, longevity and aesthetic appeal. Any enclosure must be secure and escape proof. A tight fitting wooden or aluminium frame covered with fly-mesh provides the necessary ventilation and security while allowing the valuable U.V. light to reach the frogs. A standard 45cmx45cm viv would adequately house two to three adult frogs. Feeding In nature most frogs are almost totally insectivorous. In captivity the tendency to use substitute foods is one which must be avoided. The most common dietary problems seen in frogs are related to lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. Calcium is available in stores and should be mixed in equal quantities with a multivitamin powder then dusted on food before feeding. Place your insects in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/multivitamin powder and shake it till the food is well coated. By doing this about twice a week, calcium deficiency will be avoided. . Feed your frog a variety of insects and invertebrates and you should have few diet related problems. Juveniles will happily eat flies, moths, small crickets and cockroaches, and should have food available to them AT ALL TIMES. If young frogs are kept warm and offered plentiful food they will reach breeding size in about 6-8 months. Adults will eat almost anything that moves and fits in their mouth, they should be offered about 10-20% of their own body size in food over 2-3 feeds each week. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water.